La Dibona

Climbing these granite slabs in 14 or 15 pitches is an epoch in the life of a mountaineer.
The south face, the most attractive and also the most crowded, is a fine climb. The summit is reached via a combination of routes: the Madier direct south face route, the Boell normal south face route, the Berthet variant and the Stofer variant.
The Madier route, 50 years old and still going strong, has been partially re-equipped (belays on bolts, 2 points per pitch). The top of the Madier crack has been damaged, and the 5C has become a fairly committed 6A. A large friend needs to be installed.
Descend via Angelo Dibona's route, 2 or 3 abseils.
1st ascent: South Face by A. and J. Boell, A le Ray in 1935.
Topo - maps : TOP 25 3436 ET Meije Pelvoux.
"Oisans nouveau, Oisans sauvage" west book, Jean-Michel Cambon
Difficulty: D (Berthet-Boell route), TD (Madier route)
Duration: 6 hours

Accueil : Mountaineering is the ascent of mountains requiring special equipment to climb rock, ice or cliffs.

Rating: Two aspects are taken into account in the mountaineering rating: technical difficulty, altitude and duration. The + or - value refines the rating in each category.
F / Easy
PD / Slightly Difficult
AD / Quite Difficult
D / Difficult
TD / Very Difficult
ED / Extremely Difficult
ABO / Abominably Difficult

Equipment: Harness, mountain boots, helmet, crampons, ice axe, 100 m abseil rope, jammers and friends, quickdraws, ice screws, self-locking device, headlamp, altimeter watch. Equipment available for hire in many sports stores.